BikeVis Support Forums

Hi,

Hoping to soon collect MY09 Street Triple and the first mod must of course be to upgrade the lights...
couple of questions...
1) I think it will need two H4 bulbs....will this be two ballasts and how much
2) Any merit in the more powerful HID kits (55w) or is this too much!
thanks

Hi and welcome

In our experience the problem with fitting a dual HID kit is often one or both of the HIDs will fail to light up. The reason for this is though once running the HIDs consume only 35 Watts, the start up current to get the bulbs lit is more than stock and often the bikes electrics just can't handle this.

There are ways around this, such as fitting a manual switch to one of the HIDs... but it will take a little DIY. There is also a chance that your bike could handle the start current and start the lights without any problems.

The 55 Watt ballasts are much brighter, and certainly ok for the road... but the problem mentioned above is even worse so there is no chance you would be able to start two at once without a switch. We do not supply the 55 Watt kits due to these problems, as they can even effect single bulb bikes.

The other option is a simple bulb upgrade to our Philips Extreme +100% bulbs... these give up to 100% light over stock but power consumption is the same. They are not as bright as a HID conversion though by a long way.

Regards

Thanks for that - having experienced the difference on another bike I am v keen to get this working and a little diy will not put me off :-)

What is the kit list in a dual hid setup?

thanks

Hi

You would need...

2 * H4 BiXenon Bulbs (these have a actuator in base that moves the bulb electromechanically across a shield for low / high beam patterns)
2 * Ballasts to provide the high voltage for the HID bulbs
2 * Controller boxes for the actuators

...and wiring for all the bits to connect together. In our store the above is just 2 * BiXenon H4 Kits.

Regards

when you say controller box - do you mean the dual switch thats included....

if so then 2 of your kits is all that is required and would also deal with the startup issue ?

thanks

Hi

Good idea... the switches used to be for polarity, but I'll double check they also can be used to switch off / if they are still present

Will post back asap

Regards

Hi

I've just checked on this.... the older units we used to sell had switches on the control box but these just allowed you to set polarity of high / low beam pins, and not switch off the HID

The latest units have an auto sensing control box without switches.

Regards

Hmmmmm....


Didnt realise this.... i have been using them as a switch...ie turn both off before i start the bike and then turning them on when engine running...?


will this have done damage?

Hi

I must admit I'm abit confused here, but if they are serving you OK as a on / off switch then all is ok. Did you get the HIDs from us ?

Regards

got them from you in september for the CBR - came direct from supplier. Have just found this on their website...
.....


[/size]what do you think?
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Sounds good...   i'm sure that will cure all problems on any bike that was designed for twin headlights. If the bike only was designed for one headlight the current draw could still be a issue.

Regards

Order placed - will see how it goes ....

Good news is that it they seem to be ok wired in as normal ie direct replacement for each light.


However the wiring is a nightmare to hide on a semi naked! to wit a couple of questions...


1) how much current do they draw (max/continuous)


2) is it reasonable to run both via a single 20 amp relay


3) the H4 loom comes in three parts:
         i) Bulb
        ii) Ballast
       iii) Polarity switch
Can I use 1x Polarity switch to run 2x Ballast/Bulbs


thanx

Hi

Glad they are running well

1. The startup consumption is around 70-100 watts (around 6-8amps), once running though after around 2 secs this decreases to only 35 watts (approx 3amps)

2. 20amp relay will be fine

3. I don't think you can easily share the polarity switch units... not without some reengineering of the ways things are setup... best to leave as is.

Hope the above helps a little.

Regards

Just been out to test them...wow and wow :-))  Thought one on the Honda made a difference but two is just awesome!  The beam pattern on stock lights is awful, but the brighter lights still make a massive difference.


In the end I have wired through through a relay (or 4!) such that they come on after the ignition is switched on and either
a) the Flasher/MainBeam is activated, or
b) 35 seconds from the ignition switched on. (Time adjustable 0-120 secs)
Once on, they stay on until ignition is turned off and act as normal.


It is currently "1st Fix" style and not very pretty under the flyscreen but for now i can revert to stock easily. No wires on the HIDs have been compromised!


To tidy it up will require chopping as much of the low current wiring off as possible to minimise space (realise this may invalidate warranty but may risk this after a suitable bedding in period)


I need to really minimise space so was hoping to use just one polarity switch loom - when you say re-engineer do you mean chop wires/connectors or something else!


thanks

Hi

They make a crazy difference on a dark road... but in daylight as well they are a great way to stop SMIDSY moments.

Sorry by re-engineer I mean a fair amount of chopping and splicing. I'm sure it's possible, but I'm unable to test here currently so it's something you would be doing at your own risk.

Regards

mmmm.......concern is whether it will take the c16amp 2 second burst on a regular basis......will probably opt to leave both in unless i am advised current draw is ok.


I am going to leave as is for a good while to check/test that all continues to work ok. At least the wiring in under the flyscreen so not visible (but i know its there!)


as ever, thanks for all your help