Newly mounted bikevis bullets on 2009 BMW R1200RT
(https://www.bikevis.com/images/gallery/bmw_r1200rt_3/r1200rt_1.jpg)
(https://www.bikevis.com/images/gallery/bmw_r1200rt_3/r1200rt_2.jpg)
Hi
Thanks for the photos... they can be hard to capture on camera, but lovely looking bike, I want one :-)
Regards
Hi collegue, could you telle me some more on how you've mounted the bullets, especially regarding the CAN bus?
How are your experiences sofar?
I would appreciate your input!
Regards,
Whoosh
Hi
I'm not sure how he has mounted them but the Bullets do not interfere with CANBUS at all as they consume so little power and use passive circuitry.
Regards
Well, I've been using the Bullets now for some time and no: no objections from the CAN bus.
At the front, I've connected them to the external connector on the left hand side of the R1200RT (soldering the wires behind the panel, of course). That way the CAN bus will not object since it expects some electrical current, while protecting the construction against short circuiting.
Upside: in the dark my bike is now far more 'intimidating' and will no longer be confused with some 50 cc scooter (it happens, especially in the early morning while drivers are still half at sleep).
Downside: the external connector is getting current from the bike for 30sec after switching off contact. Good willing folk keep reminding me of forgetting my lights.
At the back, I've put the LEDs on the sides of my top case. The wiring is connected to the bike using a watertight connector (ment by BMW as a replacement for the horn connector, or so I was told), so the top case remaines removable. The connection to the bike is the made inside the rear light - you'll be able to find the right wires real easily.
Upside: the Bullets will act as break lights, and can be seen through cars riding behind me.
Additional upside: in the dark my bike now looks its width.
Downside: the LEDs burn at only 40% of their strength while not breaking. I find that more than enough in bad light conditions, however.
Note: always try the connection manually before soldering, because LEDs are direction-sensitive.
Second note: always go for soldering, not for any other type of connection. You would regret it later on.
The drilling through the case and into the rear light casing is made watertight using super glue gel.
The wiring inside the top case is protected using duct tape.
Thanks for all the feedback and glad still all good. It's a very good idea mounting some on the rear luggage, so many riders get rear ended at junctions (myself included and it hurts) :(
I agree soldering is always the very best connection... takes any doubt out of a joint.