Author Topic: HID info and myths  (Read 5528 times)


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HID info and myths
« on: June 06, 2010, 01:44:45 PM »
A traditional lamp or halogen will show the legs as connected if you use a meter. HID is open circuit i.e. no connection internally.

HID lighting is an arc light i.e. a big spark between the two elements in the   lamp (then it is connected by the spark)

 This is a coolish operation and is safe in Plastic lenses where an incandescent or halogen lamp has been mounted. The colour of the arc light is controlled by the gas content of the lamp. For the arc to be made approx 30,000 volts are required so the connectors and wires are quite big with lots of insulation.
The installation kit will consist of a connector to fit in the old lamp connector, a transformer, a ballast (and if you are using a vehicle or bike with CANBUS then you will have or need a CANBUS capacitor or Canbus adaptor) a new lamp connector and a HID lamp.
HID lamps are generally blue light. :)


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Re: HID info and myths
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2010, 07:11:47 AM »

Thanks for all the info, you see so much confusion on the net, especially ebay where some slightly dodgy people try and sell HID Xenon Filament bulbs :D (a contradiction in terms)

The Ballast creates the HT to start the Arc in the bulb, once the Ballast detects the Arc is stable it then reduces the voltage to under 100v. This high start up voltage is why HID actually draws more current than a standard Halogen on start up. Once fully warmed up though they draw much less current.

This high startup current can be a problem when fitting a twin kit to a dual headlamp bike, especially on older machines.

Your right you can fool CANBUS into thinking the HIDs low current is not a fault, this is not done by a Capacitor, but with a simple resistor to simulate Halogen load levels, it's a very inefficient way of working things though as you are adding load to your bikes electrical system for no reason really, and it loses some of the benefit of the HID system (low current draw)

HID bulbs are available in many colour temps, the further up the scale you go the less visible light, but the more blue they become, ending up in purple at the far end of the scale.

We favour 6000-6500k as this has a hint of blue that not only improves lighting of road furniture at night, but sets you apart as something 'different' on the road which gets you seen. The 6000k temp also does not reduce light output too much. It's also legal at the temp.